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NL 150/300/25-200/400/50 MTT Freeroll

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  • NL 150/300/25-200/400/50 MTT Freeroll

    These hands are backwards, ie. the first hand should be viewed last. Start with hand 4 and work back to hand 1. I wanted to know if I played these last hands correctly (especially the AA's). The villains were limpers who were playing quite loose. I was playing quite tight and increasingly more aggressive. I folded my first 30 or so hands to start the tournament mainly because I was getting garbage or getting decent cards in the wrong spots. The one player at the table thinks I bluff a lot but rarely do so at the river unless I get a good read. I happen to think that he's just lucky...
    Last edited by iggyo; Sat Jul 14, 2012, 03:54 AM.
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  • #2
    Hi iggyo! In hand 4 with AA, UTG raises to 3BB (1200) and with AA I want to 3-bet. For me, a typical 3-bet size is to 3X the previous bet, which would be 3600... however.... this would be over 1/2 my chip stack, so I will 3-bet shove preflop. The opp had 2 outs and unfortunately hit one. Hand 3: With Q5s and an UTG limp in front of me, I'm going to muck Q5 here. Both of the blinds are short stacks that could easily make this a multiway pot and Q5s does not play well multi-way. Hand 2: With AA, I want to make a standard raise to try and conceal the strength of my hand. At this blind level, my std is 2.5BB+1BB for each limper, so I'll raise to 1400. The flop brings 3 spades. The opp checks to me and since I don't have the A of spades, I need to make a bet that will price out the draw. To do so, I'll bet 1/2 pot. I don't want to make a large overbet, because I will drive out a number of hands that I'm ahead of and will normally only get called by hands ahead of me, or with the draws. I want to make it a negative draw for the opp... but to still cost me the least amount of chips if another spade hits. This way, I'm not all-in until I know that I'll have the best hand after all the cards on the board have been shown. When the 4th spade hits on the turn, I'm check/folding... since I have no outs that can beat a flush. Hand 1: With AQ from the SB, I could play this all 3 ways, depending on how the opponents are playing. Without reads, it's difficult to tell whether to raise, call or fold. If I do not raise preflop, I need to play the hand cautiously, as I'm out of position and could be outkicked. The flop brings 3 undercards but gives me a gutshot straight draw. With only 4 outs to the nuts, I definitely do not want to bet here. I want to see a free card to try and hit the straight and with only 4 outs, basically about any bet would make drawing for me a -EV play. I am folding here to ANY raise, as I'm priced out of the pot... even for the small raise. It will cost me 600 into a pot that will be 5025 (11.9%). I only have 4 outs to the straight, so my hand only has 8% equity. With two broadway cards already on the board, I'll not count the Q's or A's as outs.. as I can be outkicked or beat by a straight if I hit one of them. Since my hand equity is only 8% and I have to put 11.9% into the pot..... I'm folding to the 600 chip raise. On the turn, this is the same type of situation as in hand 2. When I hit my draw, I want to make a bet that will price out the opp, but not one that is too big.. as there are still draws that can beat me (heart flush). Once again, I'll bet 1/2 pot and then re-evaluate on the river. If the river is not a heart or does not pair the board, I'll make another value bet. If one of those cards hits, then I need to play cautiously, as I may not have the best hand. I don't want a massive amount of chips to be put into the pot until I know that I have the best hand after all five cards are on the board. Now.... if these are from a league game..... then I'm immediately mucking hands 1 and 3. Also, with the aces, instead of betting more, I'm making only a std raise with them. I would not shove preflop in hand 4, I would raise to 3600. In hand 2, I raise to 1400 and I'm checking the board down and hoping to get to showdown cheap. In the league games, I do not want to take any unnecessary chances at all, as surviving longer is worth more league points and getting as many league points as possible is my one and only goal. Hope this helps and good luck at the tables.umbup: John (JWK24) P.S. In the future, it makes for a better and easier discussion if you would only put one hand per thread. Thanks.

    6 Time Bracelet Winner


    • #3
      Hi John,

      Thanks for the reply and the help! I'm sorry though as there seems to be some confusion on my part. The hands here are in order. I edited it to make it correct but neglected removing the warning.

      Anyway, I also apologize for the multiple hands in one post. I wanted to show the progression of play in the last 4 hands of the tournament. But I suppose it is called hand analysis for a reason and not game analysis. For the record, this particular tournament was one of the BankrollMob freerolls that draw a few thousand entries per tournament. I believe payout structure is on the generous side. With about 2000 entries, the top 117 players were getting paid. In this case, I finished 331 out of 1985 players.

      Your analysis is extremely helpful. It just gets so frustrating when your best hands get beaten so often, unconsciously you change your game. You see so many (inferior) players shove and move you off of pots that were most likely yours, your baser instincts start to kick in. I shall temper my betting and not be so eager to get all my chips into the middle with a premium hand.

      Last edited by iggyo; Sat Jul 14, 2012, 12:12 PM.
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